Looking at Mount Mitsikeli, from the lake of Ioannina, we simply could not imagine that it hides a small piece of earthly heaven behind it. Pinned on North Pindos’ mountains, 47 small and big villages, compete in beauty and lore, making Paroraia (for the older generations), Zagori (for the younger), one of the most enticing destinations in Greece. Due to the location, weather conditions, the famous Vikos Gorge and the rivers, the human factor has not intervened greatly in God’s work, but it has certainly helped in the more efficient exploration of the region. Bridges, trails, stairways that used to serve as passages for moving from one village to another, are nowadays purposed as the most picturesque means for one to get lost in nature’s magical kingdom.

“The snow-sprinkled Astraka”

An aspect of nature so rich, lively and many times wild that gifted us with unforgettable images, any of the seasons we visited it. But I don’t think that I can pick which of them is the most suitable for a trip to Zagorochoria. Maybe during winter, when we wake up and face the snow-sprinkled Astraka, while drinking some hot coffee by the lit fireplace. Or maybe in the summer, so we can wander in the green, sweet-smelling environment, next to the rushing waters and get lost in the outlandish view..? (A few seconds’ pause, or maybe even minutes’). The only certainty is that the serene landscape in combination with the birds’ chirping, the water flowing and the air blowing, is always ready to take in anyone that wants to relax or escape the wearing daily routine for a while.

The special trait of Zagori’s villages is hidden in their architecture and it is something that anyone can notice right from the very first village that they come across. Many of the settlements have been called traditional, with the elements of stone and wood dominating and blending in harmonically with the surroundings. Single or multi-decked, all houses are simple, with plain decoration, while each one has its own yard. They all stand around mesohori, namely the village’s square, and are connected through narrow, rough pathways, many of which lead to a dead end. Nowadays, some of them have been turned into inns, taverns and coffee shops, while others have been abandoned. Even though the villages are similar to one another, they can be distinguished through a uniqueness that you can only discover by exploring them.

“A hike among the trails”

There are a lot of ways in which one can knock about Zagorochoria, some easy, some a bit harder, but all of them fun! Extreme sports enthusiasts can explore the area via rafting or kayaking in Voidomatis, mountain or rock climbing and even paragliding. Of course, for those that are faint of heart, a hike among the trails, a horse or bike ride is the best way to get to know the region. What surprised us in a great way is that every route is different. One might take you through stone-built bridges, another one passing by deep canyons, some follow the banks of rivers or lakes, while others lead at balconies with a view or at deserted churches.

Despite the difficulty of the…ascent, the stairway in Vradeto, the Beloi viewpoint and the Panagia monastery in Vikos, are some of the trips that we would take again without second thought. As we would love to play again, like young kids, with the echo above the world’s deepest gorge. We would also not miss the chance to dive again into Ovires and the waterfalls, with waters so cold that the heart stops for a few seconds and the body numbs, but then you get out about ten years younger, with a…frozen smile. Is there anything better than natural Botox? Now, for those of you that cannot dive, do not fret, we have another way for you in which you get the same sensation. Just look for the Pelasgika walls in Skamneli. Thank goodness that we met this gorgeous, white dog that, literally, showed us the way, otherwise we would still be up there, uploading photos on Instagram featuring wolves and bears.

“The English breakfast now ranks second on the race”

The villages of Zagori are part of Greece’s largest onshore, national park, that’s why during your excursions you will meet lots of kinds of flora and fauna. Every step of the way, we were accompanied by turtles, lizards, little squirrels, hedgehogs, snakes and eagles, while the air was fragrant from all the herbs and flowers. Less likely, but not at all impossible, is that you will come across some wild animal, as they avoid approaching humans. That said, you should not be too surprised if, while you are walking along the village’s stone-paved alleys, one of them just pops up right in front of you, as they sometimes appear while searching for food.

And who can blame them, since the Zagori region is famous for its delicious goods. Home-made, fresh products, local meat and dairy, from producers of the area, daily adorn the Zagorian table. A good and strengthening breakfast with eggs, home-made marmalades, honey, hand-made pies, warm bread, fresh butter, milk, juices and even spoon sweets, gave us more than enough energy to embark on the day’s journey. The English breakfast now ranks second on the race! The thing is, we didn’t expect to be hungry again during the whole day, after this hearty meal. But all the walking and climbing up and down quickly re-opened our appetite. Possibly because we knew what was waiting for us: a glass of wine along with well-done chops, casserole cooked dishes, spinach pies, wild mushrooms, and even trout, almost alive, for us to gorge on.

“They greeted us with arms wide open”

But no matter how full we felt, not a day went by that we didn’t have some tsipouro, with appetizers and some local kefalotyri, hanging out with the locals. One might expect that the residents are distant and leery of visitors, but in every village we visited, they greeted us with arms wide open and they took care of us as if we were old buds. Everyone was willing to clue us in, recount the region’s history with pride, share their adventures with us, and even treat us. Despite the visitor traffic from other countries, only a few of them speak English, but they will always find a way to assist you. It is remarkable how much they love the region, nature, as well as their customs and traditions. That’s why, especially during the summer months, you will have the chance to attend Epirian festivals, funfairs and events, and even join mountain running races.

The Zagorochoria region is a destination for people of every age, for relaxing or exercising, for some good and delicious food, for getting close to nature and life in the village. It is a place that, no matter the season, fills the visitor with energy, optimism and liveliness. With so many things to do, see and taste, it is very hard to cram them into one weekend. You should probably devote more days into it or visit Zagori again. In any case, don’t forget to pack comfortable, warm (if it is winter) clothes, a jacket (even in the summer), sneakers and your camera. So, arm yourselves with good mood, take a deep breath and let the adventure begin!

Everybody knows the North’s erotic city, either because they have visited it and left with the best of memories, or because they have heard about it from acquaintances, family and friends. And that’s why, whenever someone asks “Where are you from?” and we say “Thessaloniki”, the reaction is always the same. “Ah Thessaloniki, it brings back memories!”. The truth is that everybody wishes to return to it someday and if they haven’t visited it, they surely want to do so, in order to create their own unique story. But, Thessaloniki is the city that also brought to life our story, the idea and creation of Travelen. This is where our travels begin and end. This is where our life started and where it goes on.

“In an open and heart-felt way, just as it suits her”

Either you are a visitor or a resident, life in Thessaloniki is full of surprises, like the wind of Vardaris, every time it comes around town. You never know whether it will be on sunny days and it will cool you off, or cold days with humidity, when it can pierce your bones. Nevertheless, the Nymph of the North, even in low temperatures, greets us with a sunny smile on most days of the year, while she welcomes the night with an enchanting sunset. Copying the method of the sly wind, you never know where this city might lead you, but she will do it in an open and heart-felt way, just as it suits her. The only thing that you have to do is relllax and follow its paths.

The cosmopolitan city of Thessaloniki has always been a crossroad of cultures, arts and tastes. Since its foundation and up until today, it has always embraced and been inspired by new cultures, lifestyles and culinary discoveries. So, from the city center to her most remote neighborhoods, it is very easy to notice her pluralistic form. On every step we see streets, squares, alleys, monuments, buildings, markets and temples of unique historical, architectural and religious significance, with each one leaving its own mark. The White Tower and the castles are the city’s hallmarks, Kamara is the students’ lair, the markets and squares work as meeting points, while the port and seafront are ideal places for walks and love confessions.

“My beloved scooter-rides are always on schedule”

The best way to discover all the sides of its personality is to walk and explore it. And do not think that the city is so small that you could just walk all of it. That’s why there are buses, taxis, the Cultural Route and the Hop on Hop off tours, which can transport you to any side in a faster and more relaxed way. Now, for the cycling enthusiasts, the city has 12km of bike lanes. But, in Thessaloniki, a ride with the safe two-wheeler can be called anything but safe, as some “too-cool-for-school” people park on the bike lanes, crossings and ramps, while pedestrians walk in them all carefree. Us, however, you are going to find on a motorbike, as my beloved scooter-rides are always on schedule. Firstly, because Nikos is driving and little Helen is zoning out, and secondly, because it is the fastest way to move around in the city, especially when there is traffic (almost always). Unfortunately, it will not take you long to realize that in Thessaloniki, as in most cities in Greece, road education is almost non-existent, that’s why you should be careful, no matter which means of transport you choose.

“These are the Thessalonikians…Outspoken, fine people and revelers.”

Thermaikos’ Siren has more “traps” in store, so if you are not careful, she will lure you and seduce you before you have time to realize it. For starters, she will use her strongest weapon, her people. Not to brag, but we Thessalonikians are, mostly, hospitable, polite and open-hearted. Just a smile or a word is enough to get you in the company and become one with the “kardasia”. You will recognize us by our body language, loud conversations, heavy “L”s and the dose of madness that we carry. Even in times of trouble, we do not get discouraged; we live every moment and keep on partying. These are the Thessalonikians…Outspoken, fine people and revelers.

You got it right! Entertainment for Thessalonikians is a way of life, it flows through our blood, just like coffee. Excuse us, our Italian friends, but the city has the most cafés per capita in Europe. No matter where you are, a frappe is always called for! But, in order to enjoy it, you must follow our ritual…you will drink it slowly, even if you take it to go! The beloved beverage stays with us all day and it is something like Asterix’s magic potion. It gives us strength to start the day, it accompanies us to work, walks, and all the endless friendly (and other) conversations and, of course, it provides the necessary energy to all of those who want to turn night into day.

“There is always something to catch our noses”

Thessaloniki is a vivid city, bustling with people throughout the whole day. Stores, malls, theaters, cinemas, exhibitions, museums, festivals, events and happenings, make everyone’s daily life more interesting and vibrant. If you think that the city shines only under the light of the sun, then you haven’t experienced its magical nights. Bars, clubs, taverns, music stages, “rempetadika” (small taverns with traditional, Greek folk music) and the epitome of entertainment, the immortal Greek bouzoukia, compose the night life puzzle! For any of you who do not know what bouzoukia is, just close your eyes and imagine the scene…Greek music, dancing on the tables and stage, relaxed mood, much alcohol and an endless flower-shower that skyrocket the level of fun until the morning. This is the night life in the city. So simple, yet so complex, that it will manage to win your heart…before you even realize it.

If after all of these, you haven’t already fallen in love with it, then it plays its trump card and puts true love on the table…Not this one…the other one, which goes through the stomach! The Greek cuisine is based on the Mediterranean with lots of influences from the East. The choices are endless; from street food, grills, gyros and burger shops, to taverns/fish-taverns and gourmet restaurants. Thank goodness for gyms, so we can eat freely…um, I meant drop a few calories. Every time we return from a trip we say “now we go on a diet”. All in vain. From the break of morning to the night, there is always something to catch our noses’ attention, as the smells from bakeries, sweet shops and eateries emerge as temptations. Try sweet bougatsa with cinnamon, crispy koulouri with sesame, filled tsoureki, appetizers at some tavern in Athonos Square or in Ladadika, taste the juicy souvlakia and then tell us whether we are exaggerating or not. So, for the foodies among you, brace yourselves with appetite and off you go!

Thessaloniki, on first sight, does not seem much different from the other big cities of Greece. Only if you look at it clearly and live a few moments there, will it reveal its unique identity and take you on an unexpected journey of history, entertainment, tastes and enjoyments. Do not pass it by, come and discover it and you will realize that it has a lot to offer you…in return, of course, for a piece of your heart and mind. We are waiting for you, Kardasia.

Unique destination, Paradise, Favorite, Beloved, Amazing and Enchanting are only a few of the adjectives that you wrote, below our photographs, about Chania. We can only agree and add that, for us, it is one of the three most beautiful cities in Greece. It was not the first time that we were visiting Chania. Nikos studied in Heraklion, so he visited often, while I spent an afternoon there, during a five-day school trip. As you can see, many years had passed since then, so we needed to freshen up our memories. About one month before departure, we started looking up information about our summer destination, asking friends and reading a few of the innumerable articles that have been written about this city. We were wondering if it is truly as beautiful as people describe it, if there is a dose of exaggeration and if seven days will be enough for us to go around and get to know the area.

“…Held a lot of surprises”

But all of our questions were answered from the very first moment that we touched the ground of Chania. After a calm flight, a beautiful sunset awaited us, with warm pink-purple-orange colors, which embraced the city before immersing it in darkness. What could be a nicer welcome than this? Maybe two-three glasses of raki for a good sleep, before our summer adventure begins, which, by the way, held a lot of surprises. We decided to visit first the areas of the region of Chania, so we would have plenty of time to enjoy the city towards the end of our trip. Early in the morning, so we would avoid traffic, we started our red car and ran to the mountains, lakes, beaches, villages and gorges.

Our first destination was the area of Apokoronas, where we experienced some of the most thrilling moments of the trip. Nikos fought the waves in the rocky beach of Obros Gialos, he also stepped on two or three urchins until he reached the shore, I was trying to get away from some eels in the Lake Kournas and from a swarm of mosquitoes in Douliana, while we barely saved ourselves from a crazy Cretan in Paleloni. (At this point, we should apologize to our mommies for the coronaries that we caused them.) And after we sang “We are still alive…” in relief, toasting with another two glasses of raki (we had already lost count), we wandered around the picturesque villages and tried our first delicacies in Chania (see below).

“We could not go trouble-free”

After we got a small taste of the villages of Chania, it was time for a few dives in popular and not, accessible and inaccessible, warm and cold, sandy as well as rocky beaches of the region. In the majestic Elafonisi with the pink sand, the exotic Balos, the shipwreck of Gramvousa, the coves of Paleochora and the Seitan Limania, we enjoyed the crystal-clear turquoise waters, to which similar we had never seen. We know, there is no place like Halkidiki, but believe us, one dive is enough to convince you. Of course, we could not go trouble-free, as we fought Beaufort force 6 winds in the western Cretan Sea, we ate lots of sand, we knocked ourselves against one or two rocks, while a jellyfish fell so head over hills with Nikos that it wouldn’t let him go. And what did we do to forget about our troubles? We drank raki…How did you know?!

Of course, the experience we lived in Menies, where we met the sea floor for the first time, cannot be forgotten even after ten carboys. The 12-meter dive (quite the depth if you consider that I can barely get a foothold at 1,50m) offered us unique moments and memories. Equally special was our tour in the Topolia Gorge, where I ran to hide from the wild goats, while Nikos burst out in laughter. (I got my revenge with the jellyfish, ha!) And when we thought that we had seen everything, Falassarna bade us farewell with one of the most impressive sunsets in Greece. In a few words, the entire district of Chania makes for an enjoyable escape for every taste and the only certainty is that you will not want to leave. We could definitely use a few more days.

But even if you don’t go farther than the city of Chania, don’t think that two days will be enough. It may be small and everything might be at short distances, but its history has a lot to offer you. The Venetian harbor with the prominent Egyptian Lighthouse, the ottoman Yali Tzami, the Splantzia Square, the Municipal market, the gardens and aristocratic neighborhoods are only a few of the attractions, which you are going to meet on your walk. But what will capture your heart and keep you there forever, is the atmospheric route in the alleys of the old town. No matter how many hours we spent wandering around them, no matter what time it was and whether they were filled with people or not, we could not get enough of them. Narrow streets, blind alleys, with staircases, full of blossomed bougainvilleas and all kinds of flowers, led us to neighborhoods and houses taken out of another era. More quiet, innocent, wonderful and mysterious…It goes without saying that I took the respective photograph on every corner…not for me…for the sake of instagram.

“Whoever dances and has fun and has a drink of raki, does not require no doctoring, does not require no aspirin..”

And what did we need after all this walking? Raki! (I see that you get the point.) Even though raki can stand on its own, the Cretan cuisine has plenty of delicacies so you don’t have to drink it with anything on the side. Of course, if you can’t handle it, prefer one of the many tasty Cretan wines to accompany your meal. In Chania you will find lots of taverns, rakadika, and even gourmet restaurants, where you can taste some local dishes. But where you will taste the most high-quality and delicious dishes is in the surrounding villages, as they use fresh vegetables and fruits from gardens, local meats and oil from Cretan olive trees. In Topolia, we ate tsigariasto, pork steak in Armenoi, home-made staka in Falassarna, hohlious mpourmpouristous in Paleochora and stuffed courgette flowers in Gavalohori. And as we are talking about the Cretan table, we always had some dakos with pihtogalo of Chania, sfakian pie, marathopita, gamopilafo or apaki. Finally, we could not leave the city without learning how to make home-made hortokalitsouna, vegetable stew and the Chania salad. And how could this happen? Only through a Cretan cuisine cooking course…by the hands of a local chef.

The people of Chania, apart from tasty recipes, also taught us what hospitality means. For starters, we did not visit a single restaurant where they did not treat us with some raki, sometimes with fruit and others with dessert. And, as if we weren’t already about to burst from all the food, they always gave us something for the road. Many of them did not hesitate to invite us in their homes, tell us stories of their land and share their experiences. Every day, we managed to get invited to various fairs and festivals, for crazy, all-night-long partying. You know the kind; the ones that you cannot leave unless you have drunk half an ocean, danced with a vrakoforos, sang a Cretan mandinada and fired a balothia (gunshot)…at a sign! Simple, plain and daily things.

We wish we could enrich our life with some more Cretan moments, but all good things come to an end. And for us, the good ended after seven full days. It was time for us to return to our base and leave magnificent Chania behind. Although the love that grew for the city was a summer one, we are certain that it will last forever…Of course, the story could not end in any other way than with a Mandinada:

Thessaloniki to Chania I am going to build a bridge
To have me as a visitor at the end of every week!

Thessaloniki, 28/2 Time 16.45:

N: Oh, I feel SO relaxed on this trip! E: Yes, finally, no stress, no worries! N: We are going to take our walks in Plaka, rest in hotels, drink our coffee at Psyrri, we will… (And at this moment, someone has fallen on the floor and laughing their heart out.)

Athens 28/2 Time 18.45:

N: We were again one hour late! E: We will miss the tour at Van Gogh Alive! N: You had to wear heels. The worst time to let Thessaloniki flow over you! E: How could I know that we would once again be late? You go ahead so that we don’t miss the line and I am right behind you. N: Got it! We are off to a great start again!!

“And we ended up running like our lives depended on it..”

The trip to the Hellenic capital started with a shimmer of hope for some rest, but once again our plans did not come to be. No, it was not because of that one-hour delay, nor my new high heels (okay, those may be a bit at fault). We had not thought that Athens is such a “full” destination that offers that many options in historical monuments, activities and food, so no matter how much you want it, there is no time to do and see it all. So, with only (!) 8 days in our disposal to discover every corner of it, you can see why we ended up running like our lives depended on it.

Fortunately, during this trip, as well, the weather was our ally (only in Amsterdam & London did it give us a hard time)! At first we were a bit doubtful, as our arrival had been booked for the last day of winter, so we were not expecting too much. But everything went peachy. The weather is certainly different compared to Thessaloniki, but we were certainly not expecting it to be that sunny and warm. Everything was ideal for us to wander around the capital and enjoy its beauties.

“The entire history of the Western civilization”

Athens is one of the most historic cities in the world, as it holds an impressive history of 5,500+ years. But even more impressive is the way that it has managed to combine this history with the modern life, without distorting features of its character. The cradle of the Western world offers countless options of monuments, sites, activities, museums and events, even to the most demanding of visitors. On top of them all, both literally and figuratively, is the famous Parthenon, one of the most important monuments in the world. From the location that birthed democracy, as well as the entire history of the Western civilization, we started out on our tour. We could not even imagine the history hiding among the ruins of the Acropolis. But accompanied by the best team, a different and wonderful world unraveled before our eyes. Of course, our impression was completed with the visit to the Acropolis Museum with the magnificent view, the Archaeological Museum with the thousands of exhibits and the Theseion with the Ancient Agora.

We obviously did not miss the chance to tour inside the Parliament, while we crammed into the crowd to admire the unique Change of Guard, before getting lost inside the National Garden. The Panathenaic Stadium, the Benaki Museum and the Attica Park were our next stops, before strolling down to Piraeus. After spending a few hours at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, we walked along the Marina and the Flisvos Park, took photos of the historic Averoff battleship, ate at Mikrolimano and felt the whip of the sea’s waves! E: What waves? The sea was calm as crystal. N: I got carried away by the poetic imagery! E: Have you ever heard the phrase “Go jump in a lake”? N: Don’t get wise with me!

“Countless stops and gasps”

Our trip included walks in Dionysiou Areopagitou, the uphill narrow streets of Plaka and the Cycladic island below the Rock of Acropolis, a.k.a. Anafiotika. We did our shopping in the bustling Ermou Street and relaxed with some coffee on the terraces around the square at Monastiraki. N: Tell them about the Art Walk, when you dragged me along for hours to find the most beautiful graffiti in the city…E: I don’t know where to start when it comes to this wonderful experience! Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio, Exarchia, Psyrri and so many other areas. A different walk around the creations of street artists, which add beauty to every neighborhood of Athens.

For the end, we left the ascent to the hill of Lycabettus. A tiring trip, with countless stops and gasps! Probably the weariness of the previous days caught up with us. Nonetheless, the view from the top of the hill recharged our batteries. E: Thank goodness for the energy bars I had brought with me. N: What? E: The view, I mean…refreshing! N: Don’t tell me that you took the energy bars from the breakfast table. E: Of course I took them! I knew that the day would be full of walking and climbing, I had to do something! N: Oh, so you had to take them!

“So, is it Souvlaki or Kalamaki?”

Athens is always on the move. The Athenians are always speed-walking with their heads lowered in order to make it in time to their work or appointments. Unfortunately, the distances and traffic chaos of the city does not help them at all. Even though they are running, without affording to waste any time, they are quite agreeable and willing to give any piece of information, of course if you manage to stop them, hahaha! Nikos did not come across any problem with this, as he stopped countless “runners”, both for information and to ask them to take pictures (those poor people)! Most Athenians speak English and will easily help with anything you need, while we should highlight that there is absolutely no truth in the claims about the rivalry between the North and the South, this only exists in the minds of a few..

Well, okay, there is a little quarrel about the “Souvlaki”!! So, is it Souvlaki or Kalamaki? The everlasting rivalry will keep on bothering us for years to come…as there can be no middle ground! And you would be right to wonder who really cares what it is called, as when it gets in the mouth of either some Athenian or Thessalonikian the only thing you hear is “Mmm…is this for real?”! This is why the yummy delicacy is the first dietary choice of the locals. But in the capital you will not just find souvlaki, but every cuisine in the world, since more and more are entering the lives of the Athenians. But there is nothing like a Greek tavern! We are of course talking about the genuine Greek tavern, which you can find inside a narrow street at Pangrati, Korydallos, Sepolia and elsewhere. Under no circumstances do we mean the tavern at Theseion, where the only thing you hear coming out of the owner’s lips is “Hello sir, we have excellent quality of Musaca”!! So, dare to get lost inside neighborhoods and narrow streets and discover the real traditional flavors.

“No sleep before 6 in the morning”

Unpredictable and mysterious, Athens is always ready to surprise you at any time of day, and especially at night. After all, it is a city that lives for the night. How can I forget the incident when after an exquisite meal in Kerameikos, and while it was midnight, a makeshift band was playing a cover of “Talk dirty to me”, in the courtyard of a partly collapsed building?!! The locals, wanting to escape the problems and stresses of everyday life, find ways to have fun every time an opportunity presents itself. Of course, apart from the alternative ways of entertainment (of any kind), the capital offers the best terraces for drinks or coffee, beautiful underground and ground-level bars, dozens of clubs and places with live Greek music. Athens covers all tastes and more importantly…it does not go to sleep before 6 in the morning!! For the types that prefer the afternoons, on the other hand, a modern art exhibition, a theatrical play, some standup comedy or a concert are only a few of the options that the city can offer them, so they can also have a great time.

Athens hosted us for eight amazing days and offered us images, flavors and experiences that will forever stay with us. What was made clear is that it is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, strongly disproving the theory of some that it is a stop ‘n’ go destination. We, as a matter of fact, are already planning our next visit.

What do you say? Are you coming along?

E: You know what I have missed? A multi-day road-trip around Greece! N: Multi-day I hear! I wonder who the driver might be. H: If you want to get back safe and sound, I will be driving the straight roads and you will get us through the mountain roads. N: Okay, I agree! (Could I possibly not?) Mountain roads, huh? You must have something specific in mind. E: From a young age I wanted to meet my (paternal) homelands, so I suggest we make the tour of the Peloponnese. N: A road-trip in the Peloponnese… Done deal! E: It didn’t take a lot to convince him; maybe I shouldn’t bother with sugarcoating next time!

As you can tell, time came for an unforgettable road-trip. A road-trip spanning more than twenty days indeed, a road-trip we dreamed about for a long time and now the time has finally come for the dream to become reality. The schedules were set, the accommodations booked and we were left counting down to the seconds until the start of our road-trip around the Peloponnese…in 20 days!

After an extensive check, our car was ready to take us to every corner of the Peloponnese, to guide us to historic locations, to gift us with images we haven’t even dreamed of, and in the end score more than 3,200 km of distance travelled! Our timing was ideal. How so? Mid-September, of course, when the seas are still boiling hot, the heat is bearable, tourism is toned down, and the prices are considerably lower! The weather in the Peloponnese is nothing to worry about, since it is mild during the winter and spring, while it is warm during the summer. The rain appears mostly during late autumn to quench the thirsty land. Although when it rains it pours, the rain is strong and persistent so it is a good idea to pack an umbrella.

Going south from Thessaloniki our first stop was Porto Heli, from where we left behind the Peloponnese in order to spend our first (three) days in wonderful Spetses! Then we returned to it, in order to officially begin our road-trip with Nafplio as the first station. Anapli, as it is called by the locals, won us over from the first hours. A town so picturesque that is dressed with rich history, with access to a lot of beaches and delicious food. Of course we did not skip any close distance excursions like Tolo, Ancient Epidaurus and Mycenae while we could not deny the opportunity for a Wine Tour hosted in one of the wineries in famous Nemea, a.k.a. Tuscany of Greece!

Next stop, the Tsakonian land and Leonidio, with a quick stop at the coastal Astros Kynourias, so we can enjoy the view from its –abandoned- castle. The tsakonian village, even though it does not attract a lot of tourists, owes its growth to the renowned Red Rock which is located above it. Meanwhile, the whole area is known for the Tsakonian eggplants, used in almost every local dish, including pizza! That is where we found the best beach in the Peloponnese, with the deepest turquoise and clean waters we dived in (excluding Elafonissos). Find out the location in our Tips section.

Up next was the unique Monemvasia, but first a quick swim in Vlychada, followed by a taste of fresh fish at the Greek fjord, Gerakas. Monemvasia surprises you with its appearance and transfers you to its own knight fairytale. Strolling around its cobbled kantounia (traditional stone-paved alleys) of the castle-town, we realized that this town not only did not lack anything compared to others, but it is indeed more beautiful and picturesque! Of course, we did not miss the chance to explore its every nook and cranny and enjoy the view of the Myrtoon Sea, accompanied by some sweet Malvazia wine (PDO wine).

Next stop, but of course the one and only island of the Peloponnese. Elafonissos, with its turquoise waters and total peacefulness, gifted us with three amazing days (leaving aside the strong sandblasting and grade 6 winds) and empowered us for the demanding four days at Mani. After our few hour long visit to Gythio, oh yes for fresh fish, we ended up in Areopoli, which became our base for the following four days. Mani by itself is a unique destination dressed in stone and drenched in sunlight. Wild landscapes, Peloponnesian cliffs and blue-green waters took us to long journeys. How long? Far to the southernmost mainland point of Europe, Cape Tenaro. We obviously visited the world-renowned caves of Diros, we learned about the customs and traditions of the area and indulged in the tastiness of the Maniot cuisine. And while the days were running out, we packed our stuff heading for a dive at Foneas beach, we swam with horses at the beach of Kalamata and we ended up in wonderful Methoni! Our mornings were full of exercising at Finikounda beach and the nights had a lot of food at Nontas’ grill house in Methoni! Powerful combination!!!

Around that point is when our climb to the north started! Of course, the temperature was higher, so a dive in the cool waters of the lakes at Polylimnio seemed like the best option! We continued with a climb up to the castle of Navarino, a dive in Voidokilia, a walk in Pylos, a photography session with the Eiffel Tower at Filiatra, a visit to Ancient Olympia, passing by the thermal baths of Kaiafas and rest in Kakovatos, accompanied by our relatives! And you know how greek families are… You check in with every aunt, uncle, or cousin and each visit fills your belly for a month. N: I thought you would say a year. E: Let’s not exaggerate now. N: That’s right, we’re talking about you after all!

And after all this belly-bloating feast, I wonder how we managed to reach the waterfalls of Neda and the temple of Apollo Epicurius. Luckily, we had a coffee under the plane tree of the picturesque village of Andritsena, which gave us the power to go through the difficult and narrow roads to Lagkadia, our stop for the next two days. The small village, despite its beauty, could only have a few hours of our program, and work as our rallying point for villages such as Stemnitsa, Karitena, Vytina with the forest and the Love Road, and, of course, for the beautiful Demetsana with the stone-built mansions and the museum of hydropower!

Our trip to the north continued with the historic Kalavryta as our second to last destination. The martyr town of Kalavryta is pretty quiet and its economy is based on winter tourism, mainly because of the nearby ski center. The pictures of nature, the ride with the historic Odontotos train and the fairytale-like village of Zachlorou added the last but very powerful mark on our trip. Of course, right before the end we could not skip a quick visit to Patras and the bridge of Rio-Antirio!

The Peloponnese is a place that has everything. Tall mountains (Taygetus 2,407m.), big cities (Patras, Tripoli etc.), wonderful beaches (Leonidio, Elafonissos etc.), picturesque settlements (Vathia of Mani, Lagkadia of Corinth) and, of course, amazing and delicious food.

N: I’m still waiting for you not to refer to your favorite sport during a trip. E: What are you talking about? That’s impossible, since the history of every location is undeniably connected with the local cuisine. N: Undeniably connected with your need to eat is what you mean to say! E: You could say that… So, where should one start about the food in the Peloponnese? The amazing virgin olive oil, the likes of which we have never tasted; the oranges of Laconia; the Lalagkia; the salad and the sygklino at Mani; the game dishes at central Peloponnese or the pork at Nafplio? And, of course, I could not leave out the unique wines of the Peloponnesian Tuscany, Nemea!

What also left a strong impression on us were the people. And we obviously refer to the people of villages and picturesque settlements. People who wish to help you in any way, treat you, advise you and finally offer you something missing from our era, a helping hand expecting nothing in return.

We never expected that a trip in Greece would take up such a place in our hearts and minds like this one did. In the Peloponnese we experienced amazing moments, met real people rid of the “misery” of our times, swam in pristine waters, climbed mountains, explored valleys, learned of its rich history, got holed up in places of rare beauty, saw exceptional attractions and tasted the delicacies of the local cuisine. So, with all certainty I can tell you that it is one of our top three destinations we have ever visited.

Finally, I will tell you that upon returning home, our car was loaded to the roof!! Wines, bottles of olive oil, local delicacies and a lot of gifts filled our car, showing us once more that the Peloponnese is a blessed, welcoming and genuine place!

A trip around the Peloponnese in 20 days

10 Years Challenge: Santorini

E: Look what I found!! N: Ah, once again some forgotten clothes from high school that still fit you? E: Well, you are close when it comes to the era, but on the subject, you are eons away! N: Ok, I’m out of guesses. E: Look at this picture…Look how young…Check these images. Do you remember how great a time we had? N: Bring it closer… E: Don’t tell me that you have forgotten our first trip… N: Let me get a good close look! E: Oh God, I cannot believe this! He forgot our first trip to Santorini! N: Oh, yeah!! Not the best of looks for us this one…Don’t tell me you want to insta-story it, the LOLs will be heard all over the platform! E: No I will not (I will post it on our account)…if you promise that we will go again! N: I like your suggestion, it’s intriguing….something like a 10 Years Challenge? E: Exactly!

I found all the photographs, old guides, even the cave hotel where we had stayed in 2009. What a blast! E: We found a hotel to stay, I called out to Nikos…we had paid 70€ back then, how much do you think it costs now? 100-120€? We are also going in May (off season period)! In short, the room we had stayed back then had now been revalued at 300€ per night!! I didn’t dare to check how much it costs in August.

It was a warm and quiet morning, in Autumn of 2009, when we headed out for Santorini from the port of Thessaloniki (back then there was a direct route)! For 22 hours we battled the waves, and not even in a cabin! After 10 years, the time for the 10 Years Challenge Santorini had arrived! This time, things were very simple, as we arrived on the island in less than an hour by airplane!

The month we chose to visit it was, of course, May (off season). Santorini is beautiful only if you go off season, since during high season the situation is stifling and prices are sky high…Not that they are low in general, but in the summer months things get out of hand. Santorini, like Mykonos and Crete, is after all an individual “country” inside our country. Here, crisis is an unknown word, as all stores operate in full capacity, while hotels have 100% occupancy!

We quickly started to remember streets, shops, attractions, squares and whatever had stayed with us (as a memory) since our first trip. But we were ready to build new images, create new experiences and try new flavors. N: Speak about the attractions and forget food for once! E: No worries…Everything will take its place, one by one! But as Nikos says, I should take things from the beginning.

Our first impression from the Cycladic island is that it grew…it really grew! 2009 Santorini does not resemble in any way 2019 Santorini! Ok, you’ll say, everything in the world changes. Yes, but in Santorini they changed with a rapid pace!

But what stayed the same is the unique aura it exudes when you walk on the edge of the Caldera. Nowhere else in the world is there a similar landscape, with the white cave houses and the blue domes of the churches, hanging literally from the edge of the cliff. From Fira to cosmopolitan Oia and from Ancient Thera to the deserted Therasia, the kilometers we traveled on the island were many, once more. But, we also had the best means of transport…Nooot an ATV like many others make the mistake of renting (read our Tips to find out why), but our fantastic scooter!

Of course, we could not avoid the legwork… You see, we wanted to take the 11km-long hiking trail of Fira-Imerovigli-Oia, climb up and down the 270 steps from Korfos to Manolas and walk the entire Therasia, climb down another 588 steps from Fira to the old port and, of course, explore all of the island’s settlements. Ooh, I forgot to include the ascent on the volcano in the scorching heat and the sulfur “fragrance”! Now I see why I came back ridiculously tan without having laid my body on the beaches! Guys, Santorini’s sun is seriously hot…! But we have to admit that the images from every inch of the volcanic island compensated us both for the weariness and our poor peeling noses.

And what can I say about Santorini’s sunset…No matter how much I describe it, it is a completely different thing to watch it in person. Think of a live canvas with the colors of the sky changing from light blue to pink-purple-orange and the sun fading out behind castles, chapels, windmills and in the end diving into the Aegean Sea. It does not get more romantic than this… (if we exclude the thousands of tourists that are hanging from every possible and impossible spot for an Instagram photo).

Apart from the magical sunset, the, according to many, lost Atlantis makes the list of millions of visitors per year for the activities but also for the luxury accommodation experience it offers. Starting in the morning, you can scuba-dive, kayak, jet-ski and take a ride on a catamaran or yacht, while in the evening you can relax in pools, drinking champagne or dine in one of its thousands of restaurants.

What have I not mentioned at all? Oh yeah, the beaches! We may be on an island, but beaches are not Santorini’s strongest weapon! Exceptions are the unusual black beaches of Perissa and Perivolos, the Red and White beaches close to Akrotiri and the Lunar Vlychada. Not so much for their waters, but for their morphology and colors. I, for once, did not swim in any of them, although I had packed five swimsuits! Regardless, I had a traumatic experience from the previous time Nikos dragged me to get in the “dark” (but extremely clean) waters and I didn’t know what was going to “eat” me from below…My memories were still fresh from those moments, as fresh was the taste of the original Santorinian fava! What a creamy, delicious spread that was;

N: You sly fox! How did you do this? Talking about the sea working up the appetite and the moment came that you talk about food! Well, I give you that…You surprise me every time! E: Like I wouldn’t make a nice introduction..

So, subject Food Santorini. What comes to mind first when you hear volcanic soil? Certainly not that it can produce even PDO products!! The protagonist of the local cuisine is the Santorinian fava, while its sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh or sundried, almost always have a spot on the table. Fried white eggplants, fluffy zucchini fritters, the special katsouni (dry cucumber), yaprakia (stuffed vine leaves), pies, Santorinian sfouggato (omelet), kopania (dessert from barley rusks), melitinia (with mizithra, yoghurt and mastic), as well as the local chlorotyri (fresh cheese) would every day fill our plates at the taverns. And since we were on an island, the menu included fresh fish right out of the Aegean’s waters. As for our most tasty experience, it was none other than the excellent food tour, through which, thanks to Aristoteles and in the company of the most fun group, we discovered and tried the Santorinian cuisine.

Apart from the food, Santorini is also famed for its wines. Exquisite varieties, such as the Assyrtiko, Atheri, Aidani, Mantilaria and Mavrotragano produce flavorful wines for all tastes. We tried the smooth Nychteri and the special Vinsanto, while we had a wine-tasting tour at one of the island’s canavas. For malt enthusiasts, on the other hand, there are also the local, cooling Donkey and Volkan beers! Finally, the night life on the island surprised us and kept us up until the sunrise, while the movie we watched at the open-air cinema was among the most beautiful moments of the trip.

But our trip would not be the same without the contribution of the people we met. From the hotel and store employees to the “forgotten” locals of Therasia, everyone was polite and willing to help us and even welcome us in their homes. The only weird thing was that, at first, they all talked to us in English and once they realized we are Greeks they all said the same exact expression, roughly translating to “Nice to see you fellow patriots!”. Understandable; combining the 95% of foreign tourists with my exotic aura, they got misled!

I will not tell you that Santorini won over a place in my heart, as it was already there since 2009, when we felt its eroticism and the beauty of its individuality. An individuality that today has classified it as one of the 10 best destinations in the world! Santorini will continue to enchant anyone that visits it and to be the epicenter of tourism, drawing our attention (in a good way) for many more years. At least for as many years the fiery giant that is the Volcano of Santorini will keep sleeping! Until then, I hope that not another 10 years go by before we visit it again!

10 Years Challenge: Santorini