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E.N. Story

Two Italians from…Thessaloniki

Friday, June 16th: (Vroom vroom) Beautiful day! I hope that it doesn’t get any hotter, we will bake…Is there a little traffic or is it my idea? This lady wears a nice hat… (Vroom vroom) Does he know where we’re going or are we going to get lost? Nice narrow alley, rustic, just as I expected…There he goes waving at people again. But I like that they’re smiling at him. (Beep beep) What, did he start with the maneuvers already? Ooh there it is! I can’t believe that I’m seeing it up close. (Beeep) Ah! Again with the brakes. This is the third time I’m head-butting him. And he doesn’t give me any warning… Where did the sun go? I was smart bringing the jacket, it’s chilly up here… Oh what a line…Do they give out Thessalonikian koulouria? Wh-why are we g-going through co-bbled streets a-gain? Aren’t there any normal roads? Oh! Another church. How many are there, anyway? (Vroooom) What was that passing us by? Careful there, mate, you are going to throw us in the river…Mmm smells, just right when my belly started to rumble…Oh! How I envy that guy with the ice-cream. Elena: Whoa, be careful, we’re going to hit him. Italian guy: Vivere Pericolosamente! Nikos: Mamma mia! These Romans are crazy.

“The meeting was bound to be a summer one”

Although it was our first time in Rome, it only took us some hours and a few kilometers, in order to get in its rhythm and get a taste of the formidable civilization. After all, the Italian capital was no stranger to us. We all have heard something about its long history, the rulers, the architectural achievements, its contribution to the arts and science, the culture, fashion and, of course, cuisine. Through countless school quizzes, pictures in magazines and websites, television shows and books, we felt like we had known it for years and the only thing left was to arrange a date and get to know it in person. This day came soon, tickets were booked and the meeting was bound to be a summer one.

Being used to high temperatures, the season we picked did not concern us greatly. Besides, Rome’s climate resembles the Greek one, as it is also Mediterranean with mild winters and warm summers. The sun shines on the city most days of the year, while in the summer months it is burning hot and scorching. This is why, even though it was just the beginning of summer, we were equipped with hats, sunglasses, sunscreen and light clothes. The truth is that at some moments, we would gladly trade our ice-cream for a dive in Chalkidiki’s waters, but the situation was saved by the countless drinking and non-drinking fountains, a few clouds and some drops of rain (for a few minutes). So, our advice is to visit it in spring or autumn, when temperatures are normal and the atmosphere is pleasant and ideal for the endless walking.

“Do you know Vespaaa?”

Rome is undoubtedly a big city and it is practically very hard to see it in one day. Distances are long, the historical center covers a large area, attractions are scattered and the picturesque neighborhoods are far too many. So, the best way to get to know it is on foot. Wear comfortable shoes, stock up in water and get ready to go for miles and test your limits. Unless…Do you know Vespaaa? The Romans sure do and they wander in the streets, no matter the weather, riding their favorite two-wheeler. And as the saying goes “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”, we didn’t miss the chance and started Vesping around, gloating like Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday. Gloating, of course, as far as we could, because with all the wobbling in the cobbled streets and the maneuvers due to the nightmarish traffic, we were careful not to fall and become attractions ourselves!

The erstwhile capital of the world is nowadays a vast open museum with an enormous number of exhibits. Although a lot of the structures of the glorious empire did not manage to stand the test of time, the Eternal City has more to show than ruins and scattered rocks. Imposing monuments, famed churches, thermal baths, fountains, squares, great artworks, bridges that adorn Tiber, historic roads and museums compose a unique cultural landscape. But, unfortunately, the large crowds of spectators-tourists many times turn the tour into a hard roman game. That’s why we didn’t waste any time. We “dueled” for a photograph in the Colosseum, we squeezed ourselves into quite a few lines, while there were many a time that we survived the “deadly” selfie sticks at Fontana di Trevi. And where we had to twist and turn with extreme dexterity was the Vatican, as the hordes of tourists start swarming the tiny state by the first morning hours.

“As other “Romeos” they are searching for their yet unknown Juliet”

In the city you will not only meet tourists. The Romans live in the background of the tourist crowds and you will recognize them from the musical language, the Mediterranean temperament and refined style. Most of them are hospitable, polite, and appreciative of those who try to speak their language, while they offer to help even if they do not speak English. Still, there are many talented scammers that try to fool the unsuspecting tourists, so you should be a bit cautious with “well-wishers” and tourist shops. Of course, everyone loves football, good food, and they will never say no to an espresso. Finally, there are the admirers of the fairer sex and love itself, and as other “Romeos” they are searching for their yet unknown Juliet.

But even if you manage to resist their flirting, you will certainly not manage to not give in to their famed cuisine. Having lots of common traits with the Greek one, the Italian cuisine is rich in flavors and choices. And you know that when we find delicious food, we dive in head-first! Our bellies got swollen by the filling paninis, the original carbonaras, the fresh raviolis, the juicy meatballs and the prominent Italian pizza. Most dishes might be plain, yet the filling, the sauces, the spices and, of course, the grated parmesan turn them into gastronomical delights. For the Romans, food is a ritual, which is always accompanied by some local wine and ends with a wonderful tiramisu or a digestive espresso.

“Live the Dolce Vita”

Oh yes! Coffee for them is the Alpha and Omega, as they start, continue and end their day with the necessary dose of caffeine. We, on the other hand, replaced it with ice-cream. Wherever you would find us, we would wander around like small kids with a creamy gelato, in a cone or a cup, with fruit or dry nuts, with syrup or whipped cream and in whatever flavors we could find. We still don’t know if this was at fault for our sleeplessness, or the evening walks around the city’s neighborhoods. Because as now genuine Italians from…Thessaloniki, we couldn’t not follow on the locals’ footsteps and live the Dolce Vita. Cafés and bars, in piazzas and alleys are filled every day with locals and visitors, who along with the street artists and various events keep the city’s nightlife going. We preferred mainly quaint areas like the Campo de’ Fiori, the Pantheon and our favorite Trastevere. Quite the tourist region, with an alternative and bohemian character, in which we lived unforgettable moments.

As unforgettable will be our total experience from the Eternal City. The seven days we got to spend there might not be enough for us to enjoy it as much as we wanted. But three days are definitely not enough for one to discover all of its glory and hidden secrets. Rome might have its imperfections, but it does not cease to be a special city that captivates the visitor from the very first moment, always preserving its history and allegro personality. One time was enough for us to fall in love with her and live for the moment that we get to hear again the much-desired “Benvenuti a Roma”!

Travelers in Renaissance

Nikos: So, here’s the plan…We get into Palazzo Pitti, we run to the Boboli gardens, we cross the secret passage, go through the Uffizi, see some Botticelli, move on to Palazzo Vecchio, find the Vasari painting, look for Dante’s mask and then run to the Cathedral to solve the mystery just like in the “Inferno” movie. Elena: Yeah, ok…I don’t want to disappoint you but the only “Inferno”-related thing that I’m going to solve is an inferno-baked pizza! Nikos: We go to the city of the Renaissance, the arts and mystery and you are still thinking about food? Elena: We go to the city of pizza, gelato and pasta. What else could I be thinking about?! Yet, if you want to, I can compromise and combine them! Nikos: Do I really have a choice?! Elena (cunning face): I guess not!

“Wine comes out from everywhere”

So, each with our own dreams, we couldn’t wait to reach the capital of Tuscany, the magical city of Florence! Meeting the city would have to wait a bit more, as the trip’s second stop –since we landed in Bologna– was Florence’s countryside and, more specifically, the wine-dominated Chianti. The amazing Fiat Cinquecento (500) we leased transported us in style and Italian finesse at the place where wine comes out from everywhere! Through dirt-roads, among cypresses and passing by endless vineyards, we watched the unraveling beauty of Tuscany, for which so many lines have been written. A wine tour might not be enough for us to get to know its every nook and cranny, but it was enough to learn about a part of the history of the place, take some photographs (like this one) and try dozens of wine tastes. But since Nikos was driving, I drank his glasses as well, so you can imagine how I got out of the tour…Yes, singing..

“Drink life as the wine and don’t ask for the time
Set fire to the present, we’re always in our prime! Hehe…Hic!”

Luckily, the only thing that “caught fire” was our car, which ran at the dizzying speed of 30km/hour, through the quaint villages of Tuscany, in order to reach the city with the second most well-known tower in the world, Pisa. Arriving at the Square of Miracles, our eyes immediately met the one-of-a-kind leaning tower, which has no choice but to steal the show. Its inclination is so impressive, that for a moment we wondered if the Tuscan wine was to blame! Although it is a small city, it wasn’t hard to get away from the hordes of tourists and roam its alleys, the Arno, its small squares and taste local flavors. Even though the porchetta sandwich and the refreshing gelato we had made the ascent to the famous bell tower hard, they were delicious and filling. After we spent a few more pleasant hours taking the usual-known photographs, we once again started up our Fiat and left for Florence, this time via the known autostrada!

“We became one with the “Violas”

The first thing that someone would expect us to do in the city is a small tour in its historic center, or a taste of gelato, or at the very least a walk on Ponte Vecchio. But noooo…This time we preferred to first come together with the locals, learn about their culture, their habits and listen to their wonderful language. This is why we watched…a football match! So, in a festive atmosphere, we became one with the “Violas” and spent an unforgettable Florentine night. Even though all good things come to an end at some point…for us other things started, better ones! It was finally time for us to discover Florence!

The city of the Medici welcomed us exactly the way we thought it would…beautiful neighborhoods, vivid Mediterranean temperament and an espresso in hand! Throughout the whole trip the weather was fair, as most days were sunny and warm, while it only rained without end for one and a half days! Of course, this did not discourage us at all, as in Florence there are so many museums, churches and galleries that you can’t stay outside even if you want to. And not only were they many in number, they also had thousands of exhibits to admire, so we devoted many hours on each one. So, don’t get fooled by its small size and think that you will see it all in a few hours. It entails plenty of walking among the architecture and the art of the Italian Renaissance.

Of course, in a city where artists like Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci and Dante did great things, and scientists such as Galileo and Machiavelli excelled, we expected nothing different. We are lost for words when it comes to this open-air art museum. What is there to say about the marble cathedral (Duomo) with the imposing dome (Cupola), the vast Ufizzi Gallery, the Accademia with the most beautiful sculpture in the world, Palazzo Vecchio with the secret passages, Palazzo Pitti with the wonderful gardens or the much-photographed Ponte Vecchio? In every neighborhood we walked, known or unknown, we gathered images of a bright era that left its mark on world history.

“The scenery had captivated us”

Yet, there is a spot that for us stands out a biiit more. It is not a museum, nor a building, but the huge Michelangelo Square with the most beautiful view of a city in the whole world! For this we devoted an entire afternoon, as the scenery had captivated us. Just imagine…The sunset painting Florence’s sky, and below it spreading the Arno River, the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzio Vecchio, the Basilica of the Holy Cross (Santa Croce) and thousands of other buildings wrapped up in a golden-yellow color! My eyes could not be taken off of it, until a “weird” feeling started creeping up on me! Nikos: Are you hungry again? Eleni: Only a little bit. But I wouldn’t say no to a fresh ravioli with pesto or some tagliatelle carbonara or… Nikos: Ok, got it…! And as I continued reeling off dozens of other foods, we had already reached the other side of Oltrarno!

“The extraordinary bistecca alla Fiorentina”

It is not a secret that on our trips we are always looking for special neighborhoods, wanting to escape the tourist clichés. This happened when we visited the other side of Oltrarno. Over there, we discovered a different Florence, simpler, more traditional, completely antithetical to the tourist mania of the historic center. You would certainly not call it quiet, especially at night, as the rhythm of entertainment beats there. It was there that we tried dishes of the Florentine cuisine such as the extraordinary bistecca alla Fiorentina, pasta in every form, local soups and, of course, our beloved pizza. Finally, it was where we spent the most delightful moments of the trip in the company of the locals, some music and a refreshing Aperol Spritz.

Apart from the local specialties, we paid tribute to Tuscany’s famous wines with the amazing fruity flavors, since we had studied their production process! And I should also mention the cappuccino that accompanied our daily breakfast and the espresso or the limoncello that helped with the digestion after so much binge-eating and drinking! The only thing that did not excite us that much, even though we were at its birthplace, was gelato! Bland flavors, small portions and quality that in no way reached the one of the legendary Frigidarium in Rome. But, no matter how much we ate, with so much walking and step-climbing, we returned to Thessaloniki -3 kilos! Hurray!!

“We were mesmerized by the sunset in Manarola”

The penultimate day of the journey started with a surprise trip. This time, we left Tuscany behind and set the GPS for the Liguria shore and the well-known Cinque Terre. A while later we were on the train that would take us, for the rest of the day, to the only fishing villages of the Italian Riviera. For those who love walking trails, the five villages are connected through paths, which many times are quite difficult! Due to time pressure, we did not manage to cross them all, but we got a small taste. We dove our feet in the white beach of Monterosso, we ate foccacia in Vernazza’s small harbor, we smelled the washed clothes in Corniglia’s alleys, we were mesmerized by the sunset in Manarola and exchanged vows of love outside the closed (unfortunately) Via del’ amore of Riomaggiore. Even though all the villages were crowded with tourists, we did not miss the chance to explore their picturesque streets, the colorful yards and lush green vineyards. And as we gazed at the colorful houses hanging on the steep Italian Riviera, Nikos’ voice came to spoil the fairytale… “Let’s go, the red city awaits us”!

“If you do not visit Bologna, you haven’t met Italy”

Bologna awaited us to finish what we had started –upon our arrival-…Getting to know her! It took us six days, but as the saying goes, better late than never. The dawn greeted us all in red, as this is the color that prevails in the city! A city beautiful, lively and very simple, with a strong student community which you can meet any season you visit it, as you can protect yourself under its 40km arches. When it comes to food and entertainment, you can’t say a lot, only one word…Endless! The student-dominated Bologna is what Romans and Florentines were telling us…”our cities our beautiful, but if you do not visit Bologna, you haven’t met Italy”. For this reason, the city cannot be characterized as an escape from Florence, rather than an individual trip that has a lot to offer. It may not have famous galleries, impressive bridges and renowned sculptures, but it does have a uniqueness originating from the cuisine, the buildings, the vivid life and its rustic city center.

With these wonderful images, another one of our journeys came to an end. Even though we were feeling satisfied, at the same time we felt sad for leaving these amazing cities and regions of Italy. In each one, we lived special moments that we will always remember. Florence immersed us in the world of the Renaissance, Tuscany’s countryside showed us the path of the wine, Pisa realized a big dream of ours, Cinque Terre told us a colorful story and Bologna showed us the country’s genuine beauty! We could devote thousands of words that would still not be enough to describe to you all of our experiences…! But what we can promise is that our journey to the land of the Renaissance is not over yet..!